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The walled city of Mdina is the old capital of Malta. It's obviously built for defence: from the top of the walls, you can see the whole of Malta, and the narrow, twisty streets are designed to confuse intruders. It also holds St Paul's cathedral, the most important church on the island apart from the co-cathedral in Valletta.
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I could explore these shadowy little alleys for hours, but what we really came to see is the view from the top of the walls...
View from Mdina, looking towards Mosta and Valletta
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Outside the walls lies the town of Rabat. This isn't as striking as Mdina, but has some interesting historical sites to explore. We visited St Agatha's catacombs, which contains some ancient christian churches, carved out from the caves and beautifully painted. (Unfortunately, the interior is too dark for photos and flashes aren't allowed.) The associated museum is amazingly eclectic, with some genuinely interesting if random exhibits buried under donated junk from thousands of visitors.